We are the best Pumpshop for

Busselton Pumpshop

Submersible Bore Pumps

Every property draws water in its own way

Comprehensive Guide for Homes, Farms & Remote Properties

Submersible Bore Pumps Australia

Bore water is a lifeline for thousands of Australian households, market gardeners and pastoral properties. Rather than drawing water with a surface pump that struggles beyond a few metres, a submersible bore pump sits deep inside the bore and pushes water upward, giving high pressure and reliable flow even at depths over 100 m. That simple design difference reduces energy losses and means modern bore pumps are quiet, efficient and rarely require priming. This article explains how submersible bore pumps work, how to choose the right size for Australian conditions and why quality matters more than price.

What Is a Submersible Bore Pump?

A submersible bore pump is a sealed, multi‑stage electric pump mounted inside the water bore. Instead of using suction, the pump pushes water through stages of impellers, making it suitable for deep wells, bores, rivers and even dams. Because the motor is underwater, it stays cool and operates very quietly. Modern units often include built‑in soft‑start drives or variable speed controllers to maintain constant pressure and reduce starting current.

Submersible vs Surface Pumps

Feature

Submersible pump

Surface pump

Installation

Inside the bore or well

Above ground, next to water source

Depth handling

Excellent maintains flow at depths over 25 ft

Best for shallow sources

Priming

Not required; motor is submerged

Needs priming and can lose suction

Noise

Quiet; sound absorbed by water

Louder operation

Maintenance access

Less frequent but harder to access

More frequent but easy to service

Surface pumps are handy for shallow tank transfers or rainwater harvesting, but for any bore deeper than a few metres a submersible unit is more efficient.

Applications and Typical Flow Rates

Flow requirements vary widely. The Busselton Pumpshop guide recommends the following flows for common uses:

  • Household supply: 20–40 litres per minute (LPM) for showers, washing machines and toilets.
  • Garden irrigation: 20–50 LPM for sprinklers and drip lines.
  • Agricultural irrigation: 50–100+ LPM for large blocks, orchards or pivots.
  • Livestock supply: 10–30 LPM for troughs and yards.

Matching your pump to the lowest water level and expected demand ensures good pressure year‑round. Seasonal groundwater drops of several metres are common across Western Australia and South Australia. Oversizing may waste power, but undersizing causes pumps to run continuously, cycle rapidly or overheat

Why Quality Matters More Than Price

Some retailers sell “bargain” pumps, but experienced dealers warn that the cheapest pump often fails quickly. A detailed Australian pump selection guide notes that a submersible pump should last 20–30 years when properly sized and maintained. Choosing purely on price usually means selecting equipment that is unsuitable or junk. Quality pumps such as those from Grundfos, Davey or Franklin are built from stainless steel and engineered for efficiency. They use reliable motors and incorporate features like soft‑start controls and sand‑handling impellers. Not only do they deliver high flow, but they also cost less to run because they are better matched to the bore’s dynamic head.

SQN and SP Series Overview

The Grundfos SQN series is a slim, 74 mm diameter pump that fits down an 80 mm PVC bore and can deliver 10–120 LPM depending on the model. It’s constructed from 316 stainless steel and features soft‑start electronics, making it ideal for stock watering systems, tank filling and irrigation. The Grundfos SP series is the workhorse of bore pumps, built entirely from stainless steel and available in 316 or 904 L grades for saline water. SP pumps are designed to last 20+ years and suit high‑head or high‑flow bores. Choosing a trusted brand minimises downtime and avoids the expensive job of pulling a failed pump from a deep bore.

How to Size a Bore Pump

A properly sized pump is essential for efficiency and long life. Follow these steps:

  1. Measure bore diameter and casing: Australian construction guidelines suggest that the bore casing should be about 50 mm larger than the pump diameter for high‑yield bores. For example, a 4″ pump requires about a 150 mm casing. The casing should extend below any unconsolidated strata so the pump and rising main are never in an open hole.

     

  2. Determine static water level and drawdown: Measure the depth to static water (SWL) and estimate how much the level drops when pumping. Pumps must be rated for the lowest seasonal level. Undersizing results in loss of pressure or shut‑off when the water table falls.

     

  3. Calculate Total Dynamic Head (TDH): TDH = vertical lift (depth from SWL to tank or irrigation outlet) + pressure required at outlet + friction losses in pipework. TDH determines pump size more accurately than horsepower alone.

     

  4. Estimate flow demand: Use the application flow rates above to calculate daily or hourly usage. For example, a household needing 12 000 L per day may choose a pump rated at 2 000 L/hour rather than 4 000 L/hour; a smaller pump running for six hours per day uses less power and is cheaper.

     

  5. Check bore yield: Never pump faster than the bore can recharge. For low‑yield bores, choose a pump with a flow rate below the inflow, or fit low‑level probes that stop the pump when water is low. For remote bores, consider a float‑controlled system or solar bore pump kit.

     

Select pump curve: Use manufacturer performance curves to choose a pump whose operating point (flow at required head) falls within the curve’s efficient region. This ensures that the pump runs cool, cycles less and delivers stable pressure.

Installation Best Practices for Australian Bores

  • Casing and screen: Use inert materials like stainless steel or factory‑slotted PVC where corrosion is a risk. Slotted casing allows water to enter while retaining the aquifer. Screens and gravel packs are used in sandy formations to prevent collapse.

     

  • Pump depth: Install the pump at least a few metres above the bore bottom to avoid sucking sediment. Never position it above the intake zone or allow the rising main to hang in an open hole.

     

  • Rising main and cable: Use polyethylene (PE) pipe or stainless riser pipe with the correct pressure rating. Secure the cable to the pipe with cable ties every metre. A stainless steel safety cable or grip prevents the pump from falling if a fitting fails.

     

  • Non‑return valve: Fit a non‑return valve at the pump discharge to prevent water hammer and reverse flow.

     

  • Electrical protection: Use a starter box or electronic controller with overload protection. Add motor protection devices and level probes to stop the pump if the bore water level is low.

     

  • Tank and pressure system: For domestic supply it’s safer to pump into a storage tank and then use a pressure pump to supply the house. Pumping directly from the bore means you have no water during a blackout or when the bore pump fails.

     

  • Testing: After installation, test flow rate and pressure, and flush any sand or sediment. Over the first few weeks the pump may draw some fines; flush until water runs clear.

Maintenance and Longevity

A quality bore pump can last 7–15 years or more if maintained. Simple practices help extend life:

  • Annual water level tests ensure the pump is still submerged when groundwater falls.

     

  • Inspect cables and fittings for damage or corrosion.

     

  • Flush sediment by opening a valve periodically.

     

  • Test pressure and flow regularly and clean or replace filters and strainers.

     

  • Avoid dry running; fit level probes or a flow switch to shut the pump down.

     

Common signs a pump is wrongly sized include weak pressure, rapid cycling, water pulsing, constant running and overheating. Minor issues like blocked intake screens, worn impellers, capacitor failure or pressure switch problems can often be repaired. Replacement is usually better if the motor is burned out, the pump is undersized or the bore level has dropped significantly.

Choosing the Right Brand and Supplier

When buying a bore pump, look for suppliers that specialise in bore systems, have decades of local experience and can size the pump properly. Busselton Pumpshop has served Western Australian customers for nearly 40 years and offers reliable brands like Grundfos, Davey, Franklin and Onga. Local specialists also understand regional water quality, including iron, salinity and sand issues, and can recommend stainless steel grades or sand‑handling pumps accordingly.

About Busselton Pumpshop​

Busselton Pumpshop and Rewind service has been selling, installing and servicing pumps, motors and filtration equipment in the domestic and commercial markets. Our service and repair capabilities include fully equipped workshops and mobile technicians. Offering a fast
and efficient repair with highly trained technicians and tradesmen.

Got Questions? We've got answers

Frequently Asked Question

A submersible bore pump is an electric water mover built to sit underwater inside a well or borehole, working quietly out of sight to pull groundwater up for homes, farms, or factories.

Most household units handle depths between 20 metres and well past 150 metres. Always match the pump to your bore depth and the flow you need.

First, measure your bore depth, test its yield, then note the pressure and flow your taps or hoses expect. An expert can plot a pump curve and suggest the exact model so you don’t waste energy or miss water.

Installed properly and serviced on schedule, a good submersible pump can run 8 to 15 years-or even more. Water grit, power spikes, and the number of hours it cycles all play a part in its lifespan.

Keep an eye on flow, check pressure, tighten wiring, and briefly test the pump every month. Once a year, let a pro inspect it so small wear or electrical faults don’t sneak up on you.

Low water in the bore, a tripped breaker, frayed wiring, a blocked intake screen, or the pump giving up can all stop flow.Turn poweroff andring a qualified technician before poking around yourself.

Absolutely not it ruins bearings and seals in minutes. Fit a dry-run alarm or low-water cut-out so the system protects itself when levels drop.

Build the bore with a fine-screen casing that stops coarse material. Add a quality suction filter or sand trap so grit can’t slide past the first line of defence and grind the pump.

Most home units draw between 0.5 kW and 3 kW or a little more for demanding jobs. Pumps running flat out all day, or lifting water long distances, chew through even more power.

Yes, you really should hire a pro to fit the pump. A qualified installer matches the right size, hooks up the power safely, and adds protection gear so the system runs without drama for years.

Let's Connect!

Keeping Your Water Pump Running Strong